Tewkesbury Abbey

Published 15th February 2015

Address: Tewkesbury Abbey, Church Street, Gloucestershire GL20 5RZ

Category: In Current Use

Access: Open to the public

Getting there

By Road

Tewkesbury is located where the Severn and Avon rivers meet, in north Gloucestershire. From either north or south, follow the M5 and exit at junction 9, turning west on the A439. Follow the road for a couple of miles and turn off into the town. It is well sign-posted and there are numerous car parks.

From the west, either travel along the M50 until its junction with the M5 and then turn south on the M5, or, follow the A439 from Ledbury. There are no junctions off the M50.Travelling from the east, either join the M5 at junction 11a and turn north, or, take the A44 to Wickhamford, then turn west onto the A46 and pass under the M50 junction 9 to emerge on the A439 as above.

By Rail

The nearest station is Ashchurch for Tewkesbury about 1.6 miles away. You can take a number 41 bus from the station to Tewkesbury.

By bus

There is a bus from Cheltenham, around 10 miles distance.

Chapter 1: Visiting

Introduction

Tewkesbury has one of the largest Romanesque towers in all of Europe. Its Norman nave and surviving mediaeval stained glass, together with its impressive chantries, make it well-worth visiting for architectural interest as well as the fascinating part the occupants of those chantries played in English history.

The town itself is a typical example of the lovely black and white timbered architecture which is a feature of the Welsh/English border towns. The old settlement is a ribbon development, resulting in a very long main street, called Church Street. The Abbey is on the eastern end of Church Street, set just back from the road.

Abbey

Entrance to the Abbey is through the north door, and as soon as you walk in you are confronted with one of the most splendid naves you will ever see. Tewkesbury is enormous, one of the largest parish churches in the country, and bigger than half of England's cathedrals.

The great round headed arches are symmetrical and uniform, leading the eye up to the splendid vaulted ceiling.

The ceiling itself becomes grander as you advance up the nave to the quire.

Nave-and-Ceiling-of-Tewkesbury-Abbey.-©-Tudor-Times-2015 — Nave and Ceiling of Tewkesbury Abbey © Tudor Times 2015

The aisles, too, are in Romanesque style (11-12th centuries).

Along the aisles are the later tombs of some of the Abbots and other benefactors of the Abbey.

Romanesque-giving-way-to-Decorated-©-Tudor-Times-2015 — Romanesque giving way to Decorated © Tudor Times 2015

Travelling up towards the east end of the Abbey, you can see the change in architecture as the Decorated style of the fourteenth century takes over east of the transept culminating in a semi-circular apse.

On the north aisle, about half way up the quire, is the former St James's Chapel, now fitted out as the Abbey Bookshop. This was the burial site of the Lancastrian leaders killed at the battle of Tewkesbury.

The-chanty-chapel-of-Isabella-le-Despenser-Tewkesbury-heiress-and-her-two-husbands-the-Earls-of-Worcester-and-Warwick-©-Tudor-Times-2015 — The chanty chapel of Isabella le Despenser, Tewkesbury heiress, and her two husbands, the Earls of Worcester and Warwick © Tudor Times 2015

Along the length of the quire are the fourteenth and fifteenth century chantries, places where priests would say daily Masses for the souls of the departed who are depicted in effigy, dressed in armour or gown on the top of the tomb, but often with a skeleton depicted below, to remind the viewers of the transitory nature of human life. The stone carvings of these chapel screens is marvellously delicate.

Below-the-apse-is-the-tomb-of-George-Duke-of-Clarence-and-his-wife-Isabel-Neville-heiress-to-the-Tewkesbury-Lordship — Below the apse is the tomb of George, Duke of Clarence, and his wife, Isabel Neville, heiress to the Tewkesbury Lordship.

The curved apse at the east end is an area of space and light. The colours pouring through the mediaeval and later glass light up the stone floor.

The stained glass windows (right in the picture above, and in the upper storey of the quire), were donated by Eleanor de Clare, grand-daughter of Edward I and Lady Despenser.

The-badge-of-Edward-IV-–-the-Sun-in-Splendour-©-Tudor-Times-2015 — Badge of Edward IV, the Sun-in-Splendour © Tudor Times 2015

In the centre of the quire is a plaque, commemorating the burial spot of Edward of Lancaster, Prince of Wales, son of Henry VI. Killed either at, or shortly after, the Battle of Tewkesbury, Edward is condemned to forever gaze up at the Sun-in-Splendour badge of his vanquisher, Edward IV of York.

Allow at least an hour for a thorough visit – there are so many tombs and monuments and it is worth spending time examining them in detail.